
Cities:: Karachi
"One day she will be the Queen of the East", said Charles Napier a hundred years ago about Karachi. It was then only a small village. This metropolitan city of Karachi was until 1725 A.D. just a barren piece of land, washed on three sides by the blue waters of the Arabian Sea. A few fishermen lived in small huts on the sunny creek. There was a pool of water on this barren piece of land which was known as Kalachi-jo-Kun. Kalachi was the name of fisherman whereas Kun meant a deep ditch. Therefore, "Kalachi-jo-Kun" meant the deep ditch of Kalachi, the fisherman. A few mud huts sprang around this point and their numbers increased. Gradually a village came into being. This village was called Kalachi-jo-Ghote, which as time passed grew into prominence.
Historians identify it with its proximity to a place from where a part of Alexander's Army, boarded the Greek Flotilla in 326 B.C. Although Alexander himself did not set foot in Karachi or any of its ancestral townships it is a historical fact that the commander of his fleet, Admiral Nearchus, anchored very close to the harbor of what is now Karachi. We know that Alexander explored the Indus delta and chose a river on the eastern side for Nearchus to sail down to the ocean with his fleet. Thus Nearchus set out from Patala, some distance north east of present day Nasarpur and sailed down the Indus (Sinthus or Sindhu) to Barbaricum, a harbor at the mouth of one of the eastern branches of the Indus, and then went on to the island of Krokala in the Gulf of Eirinon. The Gulf of Eirinon is identified as "some portion of the mangrove swamps extending along the delta coast from some spot to the east of Barbaricum up to the eastern Indus branch or even beyond". It is mentioned by Arrianus as "Crocala, the promontory called Eiron and Alexander's Haven".
In a paper on the origins of Karachi, the noted scholar Dr. N.A Baloch has used Arab authorities to prove that the earliest mention of a name on the Sindh coastline which resembles that of Karachi is in an early literary work in Arabic by Al Hasan bin Muhammad bin Al Hasan Al Saghani written in the thirteenth century. The great Arab navigator Ibn Majid who died AD 1500 refers to "Karazi" in his work "Al fawaid". The next reference to the early existence of the port of Karachi comes from the work of a celebrated Arab navigator Suleiman al Mahri's "Umdah" (AD 1511). In this book he mentions Ras al Karazi and also Ras Karachi. Al Mahri gives the route to be followed from Pasni to Ras Karashi. Based on his work as well as that of Ibn Majid, the Turkish Captain Sidi Ali Reis in his famous work "Muhit" (1553-1554) which was a compilation of sailing directions for a voyage from "Diu" formerly a Portuguese island south of "Kathiawar", to Hormuz in the Persian Gulf, mentions "Kaurashi" which is a indication that a harbor with a name closely resembling Karachi was familiar to the navigators of the sixteenth century and even an earlier period. This treatise warns the sailors of whirlpools and advises them to seek safety in Karachi Harbor if ever they found themselves drifting dangerously.
Thus the logical conclusion is that by the early sixteenth century and possibly even earlier in the fifteenth century "Ras Karashi" was well know to the navigators in the Indian Ocean as an anchorage. It was variously known as Karashi or Karazi or even Kaurashi.
Locally the name which seems to be longest in the use is "Kalachi" which is the name used in the ancient Sindhi legend of "Morriro and Mangar" or the story of a fisherman Morriro and the whale. According to this legend, a ferocious whale had swallowed up six brave brothers of Kalachi jo kun (the whirlpool of Kalachi) who were the most daring fishermen of the day. Eventually their youngest brother Morriro avenged them by killing the whale. The story puts the event in the days of King Dalura (twelfth century) one of the earliest rulers of the Sumra dynasty. This legend has been used by the Sufi poets of Sindh, notably Sindhi zakirs in the sama performance before Saint Shaykh Abdul Jalil Chuhar Bandagi (AD 1504) who use the name Kalach by Shah Abdul Karim who writes of the Kun of Kalachi (AD 1560-1634) and by Shah Abdul Latif in his "Risalo" (Sur Ghatu) where he talks of Kalachi or Kun Kalachi.
Karachi was an important center and route for the pilgrims who not only came to the ancient shrines in and around the town, but it was also used as a route for the journey to the ancient shrine of Hanglaj in the Baloch mountains just beyond Karachi. Shah Abdul Latif, the eighteenth century sufi saint and the premier poet of the Sindhi language, made a pilgrim there in the company of jogis and sinyasis. The oldest Muslim shrine in the sub-continent was the tomb of Abdullah Shah Ghazi who came with one of the invading Arab forces, earlier than the successful one led by Muhammad Bin Qasim in AD 711. He was martyred here and buried on a promontory that was some way into the sea off the coast of Karachi. An ancient Hindu pilgrimage site that is reputed to be mentioned in the Mahabharata is situated below the Kothari parade at Clifton and was perhaps on an island cave centuries ago when the ancient Hindus built it.
The Karachi area was until the eighteenth century, controlled by the chieftains who ruled the coast and the hilly areas of the Sindh and Makran coast. In the eighteenth century it was part of the chiefdom of the Kalmati Maliks. The rise of Kalhoras from Larkana district in the early eighteenth century and the unification of the Sindh under their rule saw the control of Karachi passing to them in this period. There is evidence to suggest that at some point the Karachi region passed back into the hands of the local chieftains, but by the third quarter of the eighteenth century, when Lt. John Porter visited it in 1774-5, it was definitely in the hands of the rulers of Sindh.
Porter gives what is perhaps the earliest description of Karachi, the small town which has developed in to the modern metropolis.
"Crotchy town is situated about five or six miles from where the vessels lay, and about a mile from the side of a creek which has no water for anything else than small boats. It is fortified by a small mud wall and flanked with round towers, and has only two cannons mounted in all, and those so old, and their carriages so crazy, as would render the firing of them unsafe."
Porter also mentions the fact that it formerly "belonged to the Balochis" and then says that the "Prince of Scindy" finding it better situated than any part of his sea coast for the caravans from the Inland Countries made an exchange with some other place for it. It is therefore certain that at least from the time of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro, who died in AD 1772, Karachi was the major port of Sindh.
In 1799 Nathan Crowe of the Bombay Civil Service landed in Karachi and proceeded inland to setup his factory. He was, however, not allowed to live in Karachi, he believed because of the jealousy of the merchants in Karachi, but possibly because the Amirs of Sindh were well aware of the track record of the East India Company and the ports of the subcontinent. It was, after all, several decades since they had used the Calcutta and Madras settlements to establish their dominion over sizeable portion of India. Nathan Crowe hinted at the use Sindh could be put to for the British in the developing of the "great game" in Central Asia.
"It would make Sindian help likely if an attack on Afghanistan became necessary. It would make it possible for the British to foment a revolution against Kabul, if this proved necessary or desirable. It would preclude the entry of the French, Afghans or the Marathas. It would be an excellent center from which to spy on Afghanistan."
Crowe thus pointed out the importance of Sindh in the interests of British imperial strategy in India and the countries to the northwest. At the time of Crowe's mission, the expanding power of the French under Napoleon was felt to be the greatest threat to the British interests in India and this threat grew even greater after the Franco-Russian alliance (Treaty of Tilsit) of 1807. Persia and Afghanistan were seen to be vulnerable to the expanding northern powers and Sindh was the key factor in the security of the sub-continent.
The development of Karachi as a major port of Sindh coincided with the rise of British Empire's interest in the area. By the second and third decades of the nineteenth century the British had become the paramount power in India. Sindh and Punjab were the only important states outside British control. Ranjeet Singh had established his powerful Sikh kingdom in the Punjab making his control right up to Peshawar. The British were anxious to maintain friendly relations with him and did not expect to use his state for the passage for their army whenever the need arose. The alternative route was obviously Sindh and the Indus. The rulers of Sindh were less militarily powerful than Ranjeet Singh, although they had successfully maintained their independence and even added to their territories in the face of the Sikh threat. Well aware of the expanding British power they, nevertheless, hoped to maintain their independence and neutrality through a mixture of diplomacy and avoidance of direct involvement in British Indian affairs. In the face of the realities of the politics in the subcontinent this was to prove a vain hope. British policy makers including the Duke of Wellington, the victor of Waterloo, were convinced that Russia had its eyes on India and that this drive could only be pre-empted by controlling the Indus. This conviction would prove the motive force for British policy towards Sindh.
By 1852, Karachi was an established city with a population of about 14,000 with a prosperous trade to over-seas markets. However, the making of the existing port started taking shape by 1854, when the projects of dredging the main Navigable Channel and the construction of a mole or causeway joining the main Harbor with the rest of the city were undertaken. About 5 years later, construction of Manora Breakwater, Keamari Groyne, the Napier Mole Bridge, Native Jetty and the China Creek were started which shaped up the port in its initial stages.
The construction of the wharves started from 1882, and by 1914 the East Wharves of the port and the Napier Mole Boat Wharf had been completed. During the period between 1927 and 1944, the West Wharves of the Port, the Lighterage Berths and the Ship-Repairing Berths were constructed. Most of these facilities were obsolete by the time Pakistan came into existence in 1947.
Its selection as capital of Pakistan in 1947 added to its importance and tremendously boosted the rate of its growth and development. Although the seat of Government has now been shifted to Islamabad, Karachi still remains the epicenter of commerce and industry.
HISTORICAL SITES
Wazir Mansion
Foremost among Karachi's historic buildings is the birthplace of Quaid-e-Azam Mohammad Ali Jinnah. The house is balconied, three story structure located in Kharadar, one of the oldest residential areas in the city. The house has been declared a protected National Monument.Quaid-e-Azam Mausoleum
This white marble mausoleum with it's curved Moorish arches and cooper grills rests on an elevated 54 sq m of platform. The cool inner sanctum reflects the green of a four-tiered crystal chandelier gifted by China. The memorial slab framed with silver railings draws people from far and wide who come to pay homage to the father of the nation and to watch the impressive change of guards ceremony that takes place everyday.Liaqat Hall
Liaqat Hall is surrounded by the green Bagh-e-Jinnah. Originally called Frere Hall, it was once used as Town Hall where, during colonial days, concerts and social events were held regularly. This two-storied Venetian Gothic building now houses the Liaqat Municipal Library on the ground floor and an art gallery on the first floor. Named after one of Pakistan's renowned artists, Sadqain, the gallery displays a permanent collection of the artist's work. Sadqain spent last years of his life, painting a huge mural on the ceiling of the gallery but, sadly, did not live to complete it.National Museum of Pakistan, Burns Hall
This museum, on Dr. Zia-ud-Din Ahmed Road, contains an important collection of items relating to Pakistan's ancient heritage. Well arranged galleries display Indus Civilization artifacts, Gandhara sculptures, Islamic art, miniature paintings, ancient coins and manuscripts documenting Pakistan's political history. There is also an interesting ethnological gallery.Bhambore
This archaeological site is believed to be the ancient port city of Debul which flourished in the 8th century A.D. This was the place where the Arab conqueror Mohammad Bin Qasim first touched the shores of South Asia in 712 A.D. Here also, after a fierce battle with the then reigning King, the Arabs consolidated their hold for subsequent expansion. Bhanbore is 64 km from Karachi. Popular folklore has it that the famous star-crossed lovers Sassi and Punnu, much celebrated in local performing arts, also called this place their home.Thatta
Ninety-eight km to east of Karachi, on the National Highway, lies the ancient town of Thatta. Once called the El Dorado of the east. This was a busy river port before the Indus moved off to the east. It is now famous for some of the most picturesque and interesting specimen of Muslim architecture. Although the vestiges of past glories are of comparatively recent origin, dating back to 16th and 17th centuries, the history of Thatta goes back some two thousand years. The palaces and pleasure houses have become one with dust, but many of the tombs, mausoleums and mosques remain, some of them in a fairly good state of preservation. Amidst Thatta's narrow alleys and lanes, are quaint bazaars that offer unexpected bargains in hand-blocked and hand-dyed fabrics, embroidery work and bead necklaces.Shah Jehan's Mosque
Shah Jehan's Mosque, situated on Thatta's outskirts, is representative of Muslim architecture. It was built in 1647 A.D. by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan, and is said to have the most elaborate display of blue-and-white tile work in the sub-continent. Its 93 domes, designed for its acoustical purposes, carry the voice of the Imam to all parts of the mosque.Empress Market
Built by the British to commemorate the Silver Jubilee of Queen Victoria's reign, this historic market is designed in the domestic Gothic style. From its center, rises a tall clock tower. The market contains shops that sell meat, fish, poultry, vegetables and other groceries.Masjid-e-Tooba
Situated in the Defense Housing Authority area, Masjid-e-Tooba is a modern architectural marvel. It is said to be the largest single dome mosque. The dome covers central prayer hall with a capacity to accommodate a congregation of 5,000 people.Moenjo Daro
On the west bank of the Indus, 580 km from Karachi, lies Moenjo Daro (Mound of the Dead) an archaeological site which has been rated amongst the most spectacular of the world's ancient cities. Considered one of the earliest and most developed of urban civilizations, Moenjo Daro flourished from the third to the middle of the second millennium B.C., when it vanished, leaving only traces of its culture. Moenjo Daro, along with Harrappa (Punjab province), some 1280 km away -formed part of the Indus valley civilization and it is now generally believed that these were the cities, referred to in the Rig veda that were destroyed by the Aryan invaders. The urban planning at Moenjo Daro was pragmatic and at a high level. Its main thoroughfares were some 91 m wide and were crossed by straight streets that formed blocks 364m in length and 182/273m in width. The walls of the city's mud-brick and baked brick houses were designed to ensure the safety of its occupants so that in times of earth quakes the structures would collapse outwards. It had an elaborate covered drainage system, soak pits for disposal bins, a state granary, a large and imposing building that could have been a palace and a citadel mound with solid burnt-brick towers on its margin. Judging from the remains, the Great Hall was probably the most striking of its structures, comprising an open quadrangle with verandahs and rooms at the back, a number of halls, and a large bathing pool perhaps used for religious or ceremonial bathing. Close to the archeological site is the Moenjo Daro Museum that houses finds from the excavations. These include, amongst other things, engraved seals, ornaments, utensils, pottery, weapons, figurines and toys. Visitors wishing to stay overnight can put up at the archaeology department's rest-house or the newly built PTDC Motel, which also has a restaurant. Nearby Sukkur and Moenjo Daro can be reached by air, rail and road from Karachi.Mere weather Tower
Positioned as the landmark of Karachi's main business center, Mere weather Tower is another historical monument of Karachi. It stands 35 meters high and carries a four-faced clock.Sindh High Court
Built in the Renaissance style, this magnificent sandstone building is a combination of local and Roman styles of architecture. It is embellished with cupolas, balconies and tall Roman style columns.Clifton Beach & Fun Land
Close to the popular seaside of the city, is Clifton Beach, where Karachis flock to on weekends and holidays. Scattered along the shore are numerous stalls selling handicrafts made from sea shells. Clifton has an amusement park with a bowling alley, and an aquarium.Bazaars
Shopping in Karachi is a delight. There is the Sarafa Bazaar, a typical oriental market in the city's old quarters, which is the main market for gold and silver. Among the many colourful shopping areas offering a wide variety of local goods, is the Zainab Market, where cotton dresses and handicrafts are available. Shops in the Saddar Co-operative Market have a wide collection of handicrafts made from onyx, wood and brass. Since prices are not fixed, bargaining is advised. Leather goods and ready-made clothes, usually have fixed prices but sell at a fraction of what they would post overseas.Bohri Bazaar has an endless variety of goods. Other modern shopping centers are at Clifton, Zaib-un-Nisa Street, Abdujlah Haroon Road and Mohammad Ali Jinnah Road. The old Eastern bazaars are in Juna Market, Kharadar, Mithadar and Jodia Bazaar, which are worth visiting, For souvenirs of brassware, carved silverware, gold and silver jewelry, embroidery, delicate mirror-work of Sindh, handloom tapestries, printed fabrics, lacquer-ware, camel skin articles and carved wood-work etc, tourists are advised to visit All Pakistan Women's Association (APWA) shop on Abdullah Haroon Road and the PIDC Cottage Industries showroom where prices are fixed and quality ensured. There are many other shops in all main markets of the city.































